Why Do Dogs Bury Bones?

By: Virginia Wells

Why do dogs bury bones in the ground? Because they can't bury them in trees! You may have heard that old chestnut, but in reality, burying bones is a serious business for dogs that is driven by heredity and instinct.

To understand why your dog buries his bones, even though you feed him twice a day, you have to understand his nature. You can do this by looking at your dog's genetic heritage. Although dogs have been around for millions of years, they have only been domesticated for a few thousand years, and they spent a lot of time developing behaviors that helped them to survive.

One of the most important behaviors had to do with finding and maintaining an adequate food supply. Being carnivores, dogs might sometimes kill a prey animal large enough to feed the entire pack, like a moose or a mammoth. Alternatively, when small prey animals were abundant , they might kill many of these bite-sized creatures. Either way, they often found themselves with more food than they could eat at once. However, they could never be sure when they would be able to find and kill another prey, and much time could pass – sometimes weeks – without them finding another meal. So to be on the safe side, they carried the bones, which were filled with nutrient-rich marrow, back to their lair, and buried them nearby. When food was scarce, they could always rely on the bones to keep them fed.

This process is called caching or hoarding, and it is common among dogs, wolves and foxes. In fact, other animals practice a form of caching; squirrels gather enough nuts to last through the winter, and camels store enough food and water to last for several days in the desert. Our domesticated dogs may have their food handed to them each day in sufficient quantities, but they still carry this caching trait and bury their bones or toys in the back yard – or even under your pillows – to guard against a possible shortage of food.

So, why do dogs bury bones in the ground? Because it's in their nature.

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Mold Reported in Purina One Beyond Cat Food!

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Mold Reported in Purina One Beyond

Posted by Susan Thixton on May 23, 2013 at 3:03 pm

Pet food consumer Carrie P. shares she found bluish green mold at the bottom of her Purina One Beyond cat food. She tells me she feeds lots of strays and is very concerned. The cats had only eaten two meals from the bag (she found this mold within 24 hours of purchase), however one cat is vomiting. This incident has been reported to Purina, FDA, Department of Agriculture and the store she purchased from. Here are the pictures…

Carrie P. states the food is Purina One Beyond Salmon & Whole Brown Rice Recipe. The lot number is 308710832219L01 and the “good until” date is September 2014.
We do not know at this point if regulatory authorities will investigate. The pet owner does have the pet food in her possession. Carrie told me Purina did not offer to test the food, did not ask to see her pictures, but offered to send her coupons.
A pet food insider looked at these pictures for me and shared…
Mold like this in a pet food could be caused from warm pet food being sealed in packaging before it has properly cooled. Important: this insider also explained that should FDA or State Department of Agriculture wish to investigate this mold, batch times are required to be documented at every pet food plant. Batch times would show mix times, then extrusion time, followed by the time the pet food was bagged. Thus, it would be very easy for FDA or Department of Agriculture to learn if the pet food was not properly cooled before being bagged (also it would be very easy for the manufacturer to know if this is the case).
There is also a possibility that warm/moist warehousing conditions could escalate mold growth.
If any pet food consumer finds mold in their pet food…

• Stop feeding the food immediately. Consult your veterinarian.

• Take pictures. Document the lot number and best by date. Document when the food was purchased, where the food was purchased. Double bag the food (in its original packaging) and store in the freezer (if you have room – cool dark room if not).

• Report the mold to the pet food manufacturer, the FDA, and your State Department of Agriculture. Tell the FDA and/or the State Dept of Agriculture Investigator you would like for them to look over the manufacturing records for this pet food; tell them you want assurance the mold was not caused by bagging the food when warm.

How to House Train Your Puppy

By: Dr. Ilana Reisner

Using a Crate:

By using a puppy crate or confined area, and plenty of rewards for outdoor urination and defecation, you can successfully train your puppy to "go" outdoors.

For many new puppy owners, house-training is the first order of business, after lots of cuddling. It is also the first hurdle encountered by new puppy owners. The good news is that, unless the new puppy was previously confined for long periods in dirty living conditions, she will naturally tend to avoid doing her "business" in places where she must sleep or eat. This instinct is important when it comes to house-training. It's also one of the reasons for acclimating your puppy to a crate, or some other small area for times when she can't be supervised.

How Long Can She "Hold It"?Even young puppies can be expected to "hold it" for at least a short period of time. As a general rule, that can translate to one hour for each month of age, give or take an hour. For example, your 3-month old puppy might easily resist urination for three to four hours and should be fine in the crate for that short time.

Probably because she sleeps for much of the time, she'll often learn to stay dry overnight before she can repeat her performance during the day. If it's necessary to leave her for longish intervals, your puppy shouldn't be crated. Instead, consider the use of a baby gate to confine her to a slightly larger area, such as the kitchen or laundry room. This will still allow her to maintain a natural cleanliness because she can eat and sleep away from the areas where she has soiled.

To ease cleanup and train your new pup to urinate and defecate on a specific surface, place newspapers in the previously soiled area. The use of newspapers, so-called paper training, can be avoided altogether if you can take your puppy outdoors frequently.

Your Time – Your Responsibility

The best situation, of course, is to be home with your puppy, or at least to have a flexible schedule allowing home visits every few hours, until she's house trained. She should be taken outdoors to a designated "toilet" area every few hours but if you take her too often she may become confused about the purpose of the visits. Immediately after urination or defecation, reward her with a small food tidbit.

If the toilet visit is unproductive, go back indoors after just a few minutes and restrict the puppy in a crate, gated area, or even on a leash near you for 15 minutes and then try again. With persistence, she'll quickly learn to associate that outdoor area with elimination. Once she has urinated and defecated outdoors, she can have freedom indoors for a short time, at least. 

Don't Punish Your Pup

Because punishment can be both mentally and physically harmful to your young puppy, it should not be used during house-training. If you catch your pup in the act, a simple handclap will distract her so you can quickly move her outdoors to finish the job. If a mess is found after the fact, punishment will only confuse her. Instead of scolding, try to figure out how to avoid the accident next time. For example, perhaps other family members can watch her more closely the next time you're busy with dinner.

With some time, patience, and the help of a crate or confinement area, and with rewards for using the outdoor "bathroom," your puppy can be successfully trained to keep both her "den" and yours clean and dry.The best situation, of course, is to be home with your puppy, or at least to have a flexible schedule allowing home visits every few hours, until she's house trained. She should be taken outdoors to a designated "toilet" area every few hours but if you take her too often she may become confused about the purpose of the visits. Immediately after urination or defecation, reward her with a small food tidbit.

If the toilet visit is unproductive, go back indoors after just a few minutes and restrict the puppy in a crate, gated area, or even on a leash near you for 15 minutes and then try again. With persistence, she'll quickly learn to associate that outdoor area with elimination. Once she has urinated and defecated outdoors, she can have freedom indoors for a short time, at least.

Don't Punish Your PupBecause punishment can be both mentally and physically harmful to your young puppy, it should not be used during house-training. If you catch your pup in the act, a simple handclap will distract her so you can quickly move her outdoors to finish the job. If a mess is found after the fact, punishment will only confuse her. Instead of scolding, try to figure out how to avoid the accident next time. For example, perhaps other family members can watch her more closely the next time you're busy with dinner.

With some time, patience, and the help of a crate or confinement area, and with rewards for using the outdoor "bathroom," your puppy can be successfully trained to keep both her "den" and yours clean and dry.

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Dog Food Ingredients To Avoid

                                           

Today I'd like you to take a second and think about your dog's food. Maybe you have been feeding the same brand of food for years. Perhaps your dog's favorite brand just went up in price and you're thinking of switching to something more economical. Or maybe you're getting a new dog and are unsure of what to feed him.

There are so many different options available for all different kinds of dogs that choosing the right food can be an intimidating task. How do you even begin?

Many people do not know that dog food packaging contains ingredient lists just like human food does. What you see on that label is the key to knowing whether a food is appropriate for your dog. Before you choose a new food, I suggest becoming educated about some common ingredients so you can know what's preferable and what's not so good.

One quick note: the higher up on a list an ingredient is, the more it makes up that food. Most of your dog's food will be composed of the first few ingredients on the list. This is important to keep in mind if you see any of the below undesirable ingredients.

The number one ingredient to avoid is something labeled “by-products” or “by-product meals.” These are ingredients created from waste parts in the butchering process. These parts contain no muscle tissue, and are classified as unfit for human consumption. Meat by-products are things like lungs, spleen, liver, stomach, and even bone. If a dog food lists any kind of by-product as one of the first ingredients, avoid it. Instead, look for dog food that lists actual meat as an ingredient. And don't confuse an ingredient like plain “chicken meal” for the yucky stuff described above; it's not the same thing as chicken by-product meal.

Anything artificial is best to avoid as well. Many dog foods use artificial colors and flavors. These synthetic additives are unnecessary, since color has little importance for your dog and there are many natural ways to improve flavor. Some artificial dyes, such as FD&C Red #40, can even impact you; they can be so strong that if vomited, they can stain carpets and fabrics.

Dog foods also often contain fillers; that is, parts with little to no nutritional value that are added to food to increase volume or weight. Almost all dog food is sold by weight, so bulking up food with inexpensive ingredients can save companies a lot of money. The issue is that your dog gets absolutely nothing from these ingredients, and in most cases their body can't even break them down. (It even makes more work for you, since what comes in must go out, if you know what I mean). Common fillers include soybean meal and flour, as well as wheat middling s, wheat gluten, and corn meal gluten.

Try to get a dog food that little to no sweeteners or sugar as well. Excess sugar in your dog's diet can lead to health problems like obesity and diabetes. The sugar on the ingredients list can appear in a number of different ways including cane sugar and high-fructose corn syrup. “But my dog loves his food!” you might say. Dogs are like people: they like what tastes good. But as we all know, what tastes good isn't always what's good for us.

On the other hand there are some ingredients that it's good to have in your dog's food. Look for dog foods that name natural ingredients and boast no preservatives or by-products.

Now that you are aware of ingredients to avoid and if you are considering switching foods, many pet owners are choosing natural foods. If you're a “natural foodie” like me, there are many options for us as well as our pets. The benefits of natural are due to the use of only natural ingredients that can have a positive impact on many areas of your Dog's health.

	TODAY'S PET TIP Feeding Canned vs. Dry Food
What type of food is preferred for dogs? Here are some general rules: For puppies (less than 8-9 months and less than 30 pounds): Feed your puppy a consistent canned, semi-moist or dry dog food designed for puppies. If your dog weighs more than 30 pounds, dry food is preferred for greater caloric density. For adult dogs: Feed your dog a consistent canned, semi-moist or dry dog food designed for an "adult" dog. All the above are adequate as long as it is a good quality food. If your dog weighs more than 30 pounds, dry food is preferred for greater caloric density.

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Cold Weather Tips For Your Pet

	TODAY'S PET TIP Cold Weather
An adequate shelter means your pet is kept warm, dry and away from drafts. If your pet lives in a shelter of his own, make sure that it is raised off the ground, has dry bedding and is insulated or heated. Make sure also that your pet has a constant source of clean water – not snow. Thermal heaters are available to make sure the water source doesn't freeze. Provided By: The Pet Place & Champs Dog Dish

Winter continues to hold us within her icy grip, and pet owners need to take precautions to keep their animals safe and healthy.

The danger may be worse than what the thermometer reads. The wind chill factor can drop the temperature by 20 or 30 degrees. In other words, if the thermometer reads 34 degrees, the wind can make it feel like zero.
So even dogs and cats that stay outside in warmer weather may have to be brought inside in extreme cold snaps. ``Be attentive to your dog's body temperature and limit time outdoors,'' advises the SPCA.

 Provide Adequate Shelter

An adequate shelter means your pet is kept warm, dry and away from drafts. That is easy enough to do in most homes, but remember that tile and uncarpeted areas can get very cold. If your pet lives in a shelter of his own, make sure that it is raised off the ground, has dry bedding and is insulated or heated. Make sure also that your pet has a constant source of clean water – not snow. Thermal heaters are available to make sure the water source doesn't freeze.

But portable heaters and fireplaces are potentially deadly hazards for small animals. Screen all fireplaces and place portable heaters out of their reach.

Never leave antifreeze or windshield wiper fluids on the garage floor or anywhere within reach. Many of these products

 Avoid Frozen Areas

Nothing's more fun than cavorting with your dog in the snow, and regular exercise is important when your pet's been house-bound much of the time. But take care that your dog isn't close enough to a frozen lake, river or pond to jump in and get injured.

Dr. Gail Golab, assistant director of the American Veterinary Medical Association, warns that roaming cats and wildlife like to climb onto car engines for warmth in winter. ``There's a large number of people who let their cats outdoors, even in winter,'' she said. ``One of the things they tend to do is seek out warm places.'' So look under the hood and honk the horn before starting the engine.

Animals get frostbite, too. Just a short exposure to sub-zero temperatures can produce frostbite of the feet, nose or ears. Frost-bitten skin is red or gray and may peel off. Treat it by applying warm, moist towels to thaw the affected areas slowly, until the skin looks flushed. Then contact a veterinarian for further care, says Golab.

Extra Calories for the Cold

If your dog spends a lot of time outdoors, especially if he's a working animal, feed him extra calories because it takes more energy in winter to keep his body temperature regulated.

But be careful not to overfeed a dog or cat that's spending most of their time on a warm rug in the living room, said Dr. Sandra Sawchuck, staff veterinarian at the University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine in Madison.

``They're probably getting less activity, so they may even need less food,'' said Sawchuck, who's seen her share of plumped-up animals.

Many dogs just don't want to eliminate waste in deep snow, she said. In those cases, make a more comfortable bathroom by shoveling the snow away in a certain place, she recommended. ``Get the dog out there and back very quickly,'' she said.

Booties and coats can help your dog stay warm, but letting a thick-coated dog like a poodle go without grooming can cause more problems than it solves. The fur can get wet and matted, making it an irritant, so don't bypass grooming sessions for too long, she said.

Most importantly, remember that your pet is smaller and thus more vulnerable to the chills you feel, said Sawchuck.

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